Cashmere grading determines the difference between a sweater that lasts a decade and one that pills after a season. The system measures three quantifiable factors: fiber diameter, length, and purity. Understanding these grades allows you to assess quality before purchase and verify whether price aligns with actual performance.
Key Takeaways
- Grading is not globally standardized; brands self-report quality claims
- Grade A uses 14-15.5 micron fiber, 34mm+ length, under 0.1% guard hair content
- Higher grades pill less and maintain structure longer
- Price should correlate with grade, but always verify specifications
- Request lab testing data when investing in premium pieces
The Grading System
Cashmere grades rank fiber quality on a scale from A to C (some systems include D). The classification depends on three measurable characteristics:
Grade A represents the finest cashmere available. Fiber diameter measures 14-15.5 microns, with lengths exceeding 34mm. Guard hair content stays below 0.1%. This grade delivers exceptional softness, minimal pilling, and a lifespan of 10+ years with proper care. Expect to pay $300-800 for a Grade A sweater from established brands.
Grade B uses fiber measuring 16-17 microns, with lengths between 30-34mm. Guard hair content reaches 0.3-0.5%. This grade offers good softness and durability at a more accessible price point ($150-350). It pills more than Grade A during initial wears but stabilizes after the first season.
Grade C includes fiber from 17-19 microns, with minimum lengths of 28-30mm. Guard hair content can reach 1-2%. This grade feels noticeably coarser and pills more readily. Lifespan typically ranges from 3-5 years. Sweaters in this category cost $80-200.
Some manufacturers reference Grade D for fiber above 19 microns, but this rarely appears in finished garments marketed as pure cashmere.
What Determines Grade
Fiber Diameter Measurement
Laboratories use an Optical Fiber Diameter Analyzer (OFDA) to measure individual fiber diameters. The device scans thousands of fibers and calculates average micron count. Brands that publish OFDA results provide verifiable quality data. Those that rely on descriptive terms like "ultra-soft" without measurements often use lower grades.
Length Sorting
Longer fibers create stronger yarn with less pilling. Manufacturers sort fiber by length using mechanical combs that separate short fibers (under 28mm) from longer ones. Grade A requires consistent length above 34mm. Shorter fibers get downgraded or blended into lower-quality products.
Purity Testing
Guard hairs are the coarse outer coat fibers that protect goats from weather. They measure 30-50 microns, significantly thicker than cashmere undercoat. Even small amounts of guard hair reduce softness and cause itching. Grade A maintains purity below 0.1%, requiring meticulous hand-combing during processing.
How Grades Affect Performance
Softness Differences
The difference between 14 and 17 microns is perceptible to touch. Grade A feels noticeably softer against skin, with a silk-like texture. Grade B offers good softness but lacks the exceptional hand feel of Grade A. Grade C feels closer to fine wool than luxury cashmere.
This difference persists over time. Grade A maintains softness through years of wear. Lower grades become coarser as shorter fibers break and guard hairs work their way to the surface.
Pilling Tendency
All cashmere pills during initial wears as loose surface fibers work free. The difference lies in how quickly pilling stabilizes:
- Grade A: Pills lightly for 3-5 wears, then stabilizes. Pills that form are small and easy to remove.
- Grade B: Pills moderately for 8-12 wears. Requires more frequent de-pilling but eventually stabilizes.
- Grade C: Pills heavily and continuously. Short fibers keep breaking free, creating persistent pilling throughout the garment's life.
Durability and Lifespan
Grade A cashmere lasts 10-15 years with proper care. The long fibers and tight yarn structure resist wear. Grade B typically lasts 6-8 years before showing significant thinning. Grade C degrades noticeably after 3-5 years, with elbows and cuffs wearing through first.
Price Correlation
Grade A sweaters from established brands cost $300-800. This reflects the rarity of fine fiber (only 10-15% of annual cashmere harvest meets Grade A standards) and the labor-intensive sorting process.
Grade B pieces range from $150-350. This represents the bulk of the market, where most brands compete on design and fit rather than fiber quality.
Grade C products cost $80-200. Fast fashion brands often use this grade, relying on price sensitivity rather than longevity.
Industry Grading Inconsistencies
No global authority enforces cashmere grading standards. The International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO) publishes guidelines, but compliance is voluntary. This creates significant inconsistencies:
Self-Reporting: Brands determine their own grades without independent verification. A "Grade A" claim from one brand may not match another's standards.
Marketing vs Reality: Descriptive terms like "premium," "luxury," or "ultra-soft" carry no technical meaning. Without published micron counts and length specifications, these terms are marketing language.
Regional Variations: Chinese manufacturers may use different standards than European processors. Italian brands often publish detailed specifications; Asian fast fashion brands rarely do.
How to Verify Claims
When evaluating cashmere quality, request specific data:
- Micron count: Ask for OFDA test results showing average fiber diameter
- Fiber length: Confirm minimum length specifications (34mm+ for Grade A)
- Purity percentage: Request guard hair content data
- Country of origin: Fiber source affects quality (Mongolian and Inner Mongolian cashmere generally grades higher)
- Processing location: Italian and Scottish mills maintain stricter quality controls than many Asian facilities
Brands confident in their quality publish this data on product pages or provide it upon request. Those that deflect or provide vague answers likely use lower grades than claimed.
Choosing the Right Grade
Grade A for Luxury and Longevity
Choose Grade A when:
- You want maximum softness and comfort
- You plan to wear the piece frequently for years
- You can invest in proper care (hand washing, careful storage)
- You value cost per wear over initial price
Grade A makes sense for wardrobe staples: crew neck sweaters, cardigans, and classic styles that transcend trends.
Grade B for Everyday Wear
Grade B works well when:
- You want good quality at a moderate price
- You need pieces for regular rotation
- You prefer machine washing (though hand washing extends life)
- You update your wardrobe every few seasons
Grade B delivers solid performance without the premium price of Grade A.
When Grade C Makes Sense
Grade C is appropriate for:
- Trend-driven pieces you'll wear for one season
- Layering pieces worn over other garments (less skin contact)
- Testing cashmere before investing in higher grades
- Budget-conscious purchases where longevity isn't the priority
Understand that Grade C requires more maintenance and won't last as long as higher grades.
The Auralia Standard
Auralia uses exclusively Grade A cashmere: 14.5-15.5 microns, 36-42mm length, under 0.05% guard hair content. We publish OFDA test results for each collection and source fiber from Inner Mongolia's Alashan region, where goats produce the finest undercoat due to extreme temperature variations.
Our processing occurs at Italian mills that have specialized in cashmere for three generations. This combination of exceptional fiber and expert processing delivers the softness, durability, and minimal pilling that define Grade A performance.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Grade A always better than Grade B?
Grade A is objectively finer and softer, but "better" depends on your priorities. If you want maximum softness and plan to keep pieces for a decade, Grade A justifies the premium. If you prefer updating your wardrobe more frequently, Grade B offers better value.
How can I verify a brand's grade claims?
Request OFDA test results showing fiber diameter, length specifications, and guard hair content. Legitimate Grade A claims include micron counts between 14-15.5. If a brand can't provide this data, assume lower quality.
Do all brands use the same grading system?
No. Grading is not standardized globally. Some brands use A-B-C, others use numerical scales (1-4), and many use no formal system. Always ask for specific micron count and length data rather than relying on grade letters alone.
Can Grade B cashmere be high quality?
Yes. Grade B represents good quality cashmere that will last 6-8 years with proper care. It's softer than most wool and suitable for everyday wear. The distinction from Grade A is noticeable but not dramatic for most wearers.
What grade does Auralia use?
Auralia uses exclusively Grade A cashmere: 14.5-15.5 microns, 36-42mm length, sourced from Inner Mongolia and processed in Italy. We publish OFDA test results for each collection to verify these specifications.
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