Traceability

Fiber Origin

Our cashmere comes from Inner Mongolia and Xinjiang, regions where the climate produces the finest undercoat. The goats are combed, not sheared, during the spring molt. This is gentler on the animal and yields longer, stronger fibers.

We work with three herding cooperatives, each representing between fifty and two hundred families. The cooperatives aggregate fiber from their members, ensuring consistent quality and fair payment. We do not buy from open markets or middlemen.

This is not perfect. We cannot verify every herd or every combing. But we can verify the cooperatives, and the cooperatives can verify their members. This is as close to full traceability as the current supply chain allows.

Processing

After combing, the raw fiber is sent to a dehairing facility in Baotou. Dehairing removes guard hairs and impurities, leaving only the soft undercoat. This is a mechanical process, not chemical. The fiber is then washed, carded, and spun into yarn.

We use a single spinning mill, Erdos Group, which has been operating for over forty years. They spin at a 2/26 count, which produces a yarn that is fine but not fragile. The yarn is then dyed using low-impact dyes that meet OEKO-TEX Standard 100.

Dyeing is where most environmental impact occurs. Water usage, chemical discharge, and energy consumption are all significant. We have chosen a mill that recycles ninety percent of its water and uses solar power for thirty percent of its energy needs. This is not carbon-neutral, but it is measurably better than the industry average.

Manufacturing

Knitting and finishing take place in Tongxiang, Zhejiang Province. The factory employs two hundred and forty workers, most of whom have been there for over a decade. Wages are above the regional minimum, and working hours comply with Chinese labor law.

We visit the factory twice a year. We inspect working conditions, review payroll records, and speak with workers directly. This is not an audit—it is a relationship. We know the factory manager by name. We know the lead knitter. We know the woman who links our seams.

This level of engagement is only possible because we work with a single factory. If we diversified our production across multiple facilities, we would lose this visibility. So we accept the risk of concentration in exchange for accountability.

Transportation

Finished garments are shipped by sea, not air. Sea freight produces ninety percent less carbon emissions than air freight, but it takes six weeks instead of six days. We plan our production schedules to accommodate this delay.

This is inconvenient. It means we cannot respond quickly to demand spikes. It means we must forecast accurately months in advance. But the environmental cost of air freight is not justifiable for a product that is not perishable or time-sensitive.

Certifications

We hold OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certification for our yarns, which verifies that they are free from harmful chemicals. We do not hold organic certification, because cashmere is not a cultivated crop and the organic standards for animal fibers are not well-defined.

We do not hold Fair Trade certification, because the Fair Trade system is designed for agricultural products, not textiles. We do, however, adhere to the principles of fair trade: fair wages, safe working conditions, and long-term relationships with suppliers.

Certifications are useful, but they are not sufficient. They verify compliance with a standard, but they do not guarantee excellence. We use certifications as a baseline, not a ceiling.

What We Don't Know

We do not know the exact location of every herd. We do not know the names of every herder. We do not know the precise carbon footprint of every shipment.

These gaps are not acceptable, but they are honest. The cashmere supply chain is complex, and full traceability to the animal level is not yet achievable at scale. We are working toward it, but we are not there.

We could claim more than we know. Many brands do. We choose not to. Transparency means acknowledging limitations as well as strengths.

The Commitment

Traceability is not static. Every year, we push further back in the supply chain. Every year, we ask more questions and demand more documentation. Every year, we get closer to full visibility.

This is expensive. It requires dedicated staff, regular travel, and ongoing investment in supplier relationships. But it is the only way to ensure that what we say about our products is verifiable, not aspirational.

Traceability is not a marketing advantage. It is a responsibility. It is the foundation of trust, and trust is the foundation of everything else.